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THE KINGDOM OF WONDER
INTRODUCTION
CAMBODIA DESTINATION
PHNOM PENH (CAPITAL CITY OF CAMBODIA)
Before civil war broke out, Phnom Penh was nicknamed 'The Pearl of Asia' as it was considered one of the finest cities in the region. Located at the junction of the Mekong, Bassac and Tonle Sap rivers, Phnom Penh has been Cambodia's capital for most of the last six centuries. Having recovered from the dark legacy of the Pol Pot era in the 1970's, Phnom Penh today is a vibrant economic center with a population of two million. Cafes, restaurants and hotels line the riverfront while boutique shops and art galleries sprout along smaller side streets. Even as it undergoes urban development, Phnom Penh has retained much of its old world charm as evident in the French colonial architecture and traditional ornate temples. Rich in history, the city offers a number of cultural and historical sites including the National Museum, Royal Palace, and Silver Pagoda.
To truly understand the country's recent history and the people's mindset, a visit to the Tuol Sleng Prison is a must. Also known as S-21, this former school became a torture center and has now been preserved as a museum. On the outskirts of Phnom Penh are the Killing Fields, an area where some 17,000 men, women and children were murdered and dumped in mass graves. Not for the faint-of-heart, these sites are sobering reminders of the Khmer Rouge's brutality-and of the rest of the world's failure to intervene.
SIEM REAP: (314 km from Phnom Penh)
Siem Reap is a charming provincial town defined by a cluster of villages, Chinese-style shop houses, and French-colonial architecture. As a gateway to the ancient temple ruins of Angkor, Siem Reap has experienced exponential growth in recent years with hotel and resort developments turning this once sleepy village into a tourism mecca. Activities to experience in the town of Siem Reap include watching a traditional Cambodian "apsara" dance performance and participating in a Khmer cuisine cooking class. The rural outskirts offer plenty of interesting activities such as visiting craft shops and silk farms, taking a bike ride through the scenic countryside, or participating in a humanitarian assistance program by making a pump well donation or helping children at an orphanage.
Getting here: Most visitors arrive in Siem Reap by air. There are direct flights from most major capital cities in Southeast Asia. It is a 40 minutes flight or a 6 hour journey by road from Phnom Penh.
TEMPLES OF ANGKOR (321) km from Phnom Penh)
Designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1992, the Angkor Archaeological Park encompasses dozens of temple ruins whose artistic and archaeological significance and visual impact place it alongside other wonders of the world like the Pyramids, Machu Pichu and the Taj Mahal. Built between seven and eleven centuries ago the temples-about 100 of which are still standing-were devoted to Buddha and Hindu deities. Within the fortified city of Angkor Thom lies the Bayon temple, the third tier of which is lined by more than 200 huge, carved faces that stare down from 54 towers. Other highlights include the Buddhist temple of Ta Prohm, which was not been restored and looks just as it did when French explorers stumbled upon it in the 1860s, and Angkor Wat, a vast temple complex dedicated to Vishnu in the early 12th century. Many of the temples are covered with fantastic carvings depicting religious stories and scenes from daily life.
You will be issued an "Angkor Pass" which is similar to an entrance ticket but has your photo on it. The pass allows you access all the temples in the complex. Make sure you keep the pass just in case you would like to explore the temples in your leisure time, as long as the date is still valid.
BATTAMBANG: (292 km from Phnom Penh)
Sitting on the Sangker River just south west of the Tonle Sap Lake, Battambang town is at the heart of Cambodia's 'rice bowl'. Although being the country's second biggest town, Battambang still has a very local provincial atmosphere. Much of the architecture is traditional Cambodian and French colonial, evident in the town's many French-style villas and storefronts. The nearby countryside also harbors old pagodas, Angkorian-era ruins, caves, waterfalls, and Khmer Rouge period killing fields.
Getting here: There is a daily ferry that departs Siem Reap at 7:30am. It's a picturesque, 6-8 hour journey across the Tonle Sap and up the Sangker River in the wet season, but can be considerably longer in the dry season due to low water levels. Overland from Siem Reap via Sisophon takes 3-4 hours. Much of the stretch between Siem Reap and Sisophon is in poor condition. The road from Sisophon to Battambang is in good condition. Overland from Phnom Penh to Battambang is 291km (4 hours) on a paved road in good condition.
RATANAKIRI:: (600 km from Phnom Penh)
Banlung City is the provincial capital of Ratanakiri Province in the mountainous northeastern corner. It is one of the poorest regions in the country with a sparse population of 150,000. Ratanakiri is known for its lush forests and rich biodiversity, though recent development is threatening the province's ecological health. Some of the most biologically diverse lowland tropical rainforest and mountain forest ecosystems of mainland Southeast Asia are located in Ratanakiri. Activities include excursions/treks to remote Khmer Loeu villages and jungle areas, waterfalls, gem mines, and Ratanakiri's famous Yeak Laom volcanic lake.
Getting here: Check with the local operator about mode of transport since this is a difficult place to access.
MONDULKIRI (600 km from Phnom Penh)
Mondolkiri is the largest province of Cambodia but is sparsely populated with about 40,000 people. Located on the eastern highlands, Mondolkiri has scenery and a climate quite unlike anywhere else in the country. There are rolling grassy hills, serene rivers, powerful waterfalls, and forested mountains. At an average elevation of 800m, it can get quite chilly at night. Mondulkiri has numerous tourist attractions such as waterfalls, indigenous hilltribe culture, national parks and elephant trekking. Sen Monorom, the provincial capital, is a quiet town with a frontier feel, although it has potential to develop into an eco-tourism center.
Getting here: It is 370 km (6-8 hours) by road from Phnom Penh to Sen Monorom. Most of the road is in good condition with exception of some potholes from Phnom Penh to Kompong Cham. The worse part of the road is from Snoul to Kev Seima which has bumpy dirt tracks.
SIHANOUKVILLE (KOMPONG SOM): (230 km from Phnom Penh)
Located on the southwest peninsula facing the Gulf of Thailand, Sihanoukville was originally founded as a port town half a century ago. Today this provincial town is Cambodia's premier beach destination with miles of powdered white sand beaches, picturesque islands and warm tropical waters which can be visited year round. The nearby islands teeming with coral and colorful range of tropical fish offer excellent opportunities for snorkeling and diving. If you are a seafood lover, you will especially enjoy the local specialties of fresh caught crab and shrimp.
Getting here: Sihanoukville is 230 kilometers or about a 3 ½ hours drive from Phnom Penh. It is accessible via one of the best inter-provincial roads in the country.
KAMPOT - KEP: (148 km from Phnom Penh)
Kampot is a pleasant town on the banks of the lovely Kamchay River. The nearby seaside resort of Kep (formerly known as Kep-sur-Mer) is located 30 km from Kampot. This beautiful coastal area was once the favorite holiday spot for Cambodia's French-influenced elite during the turn of the century. The town is once again developing a reputation as an appealing retreat with quiet beaches and wonderful seafood. Kampot is also a base for excursions to Bokor, in the Elephant Mountains. The National Park is famous for the beauty of its forests and waterfalls and from the long abandoned hill resort of Bokor, the visitor can enjoy an amazing view of the Gulf of Siam.
In contrast to the popular and bustling beachfronts in Sihanoukville, Kep is a small and low-key beach town. From the early 20th century through the 1960s, Kep was Cambodia's premier beach town, drawing weekend holiday-makers to its picturesque shores lined with ritzy ocean side villas of the privileged class. Nowadays, the old villas are in ruins, and the town is known more for its oceanfront seafood stalls than for its beaches, which are narrow and stony, offering just a few slivers of sand. Nearby attractions include Bokor Hill Station, a mountaintop collection of colonial buildings (hotel, casino, church, and royal residence) constructed by French authorities in the early 1920s as a retreat for French officials and foreign visitors to old Indochina.
Getting here: From Kampot, it is a 25km (30-45 mins) trip on paved, smooth road through scenic Cambodian countryside.
KOMPONG CHAM: (124 km from Phnom Penh)
This lively port on the banks of the Mekong has some good examples of colonial architecture, as well as some interesting temples (including Wat Nokhor and Wat Kohear Nokor). Outside the provincial capital, on the other bank of the Mekong River, is Chhup, a rubber plantation that was first established in the region by the French tire maker Michelin.
KRATIE: (315 km from Phnom Penh)
Kratie is a port town on the Mekong River, roughly halfway between Phnom Penh and the Laos border. This small provincial town has good examples of sumptuous colonial architecture and is home to a rare and endangered species of river dolphins. Traveling around Kratie provides an interesting opportunity to discover a peaceful rural Cambodia with beautiful villages, lush vegetation and serene monasteries.
KOH KONG (CONSERVATION CORRIDOR): (278 km from Phnom Penh)
The southern Cardamom Mountains are an exceptionally beautiful area and a biodiversity hotspot. They are one of the last remaining elephant corridors and large predator ranges in the region. The mountains host more than half of Cambodia's 2,300 bird species and are home to 14 globally threatened mammal groups. Explore the inhabited islands, isolated beaches, pristine rainforest, mangrove-lined rivers and remote waterfalls. Ecotourism is starting to open up the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor.
Chronology of Angkor's Temples
9TH CENTURY
(Hariharalaya) Hindu
Hariharalaya was built during the 9th century and served as the capital of King Jayavarman II and later, his son Jayavarman III. The surrounding temples of Bakhong, Preah Kho and Lolei were built during the reign of Indravarman I and his son. Together, they represent the beginning of Khmer classical art.
PHNOM BAKHENG (893)
Yacovarman I, son of Indravarman I, built his capital Yacodharapura around the hill of Phnom Bakheng. The Phnom Bakheng is home of the first mountain temples built in the vicinity of Angkor.
PRASAT KRAVAN (921) Hindu (Vishnu)
Built during the reign of Hashavarman I, it is composed of five brick towers. Two of them are decorated with bas-reliefs, representing Vishnu and Lakshmi, cut into bricks on the interior walls.
9TH - 10TH CENTURY
BARAY ORIENTAL & MEBON ORIENTAL (952) Hindu (Shiva)
Yacovarman I also built the Baray Oriental reservoir. Measuring 7000 by 1800 meters, the water was diverted from the Siem Reap River. Rajendravarman erected the Mebon Oriental. This mountain temple is guarded at its base by harnessed stone elephants.
Mebon Oriental. (961) Hindu (Shiva)
Built by was built by Rajendravarman, nine years after the construction of Mebon Oriental. Composed of laterite and bricks, it is similar in style though on a much grandeur scale.
PHIMEANAKAS Hindu (Shiva)
This small mountain temple lies in the middle of the Royal Enclosure. Its name means "Celestial Palace". Rajendravarman built the pyramid and its gallery was later added by Suryavarman I.
BANTEAY SREI (967) Hindu (Shiva)
Built under Jayavarman V, Banteay Srei is regarded as the jewel in the crown of classical Khmer art. Its rose-colored sandstone walls are decorated with carvings and bas-reliefs, which are among the most accomplished art that Angkor has to offer.
11TH CENTURY
TAKEO Hindu (Shiva)
Built by Jayavarman V, this mountain temple takes the form of an imposing five-tier pyramid. Takeo was one of the 1st Angkorian monuments built entirely in sandstone but has no decorative carvings because construction was never finished.
BAPHUON (1060) Hindu (Shiva)
Built by Udayadityavarman II, it was the city center prior to the construction of Angkor Thom. The wall on the second level of the West Side was fashioned into a 40 meter-long reclining Buddha.
KBAL SPEAN "The Thousand Linga River" Hindu (Vishnu)
Built by hermits, Kbal Spean is about 30 km northeast of the Bayon and about 9 km beyond Banteay Srei. Commonly referred to in English as "the River of a Thousand Lingas", this is a peaceful area of riverbed carvings. The river, carved with several good images of Rama, Lakshmi and Hanuman, include a large image of Vishnu. Carved into the sandstone riverbed are over 1,000 lingas, (about 25 square centimeters and 10 centimeters deep) that are lined in a perfect grid pattern.
12TH CENTURY
ANGKOR WAT (1110 - 1150) Hindu (Vishnu)
Suryavarman II dedicated this temple to Vishnu and this explains its unusual orientation to the West. It is the most famous temple of Angkor. Its design replicates the spatial universe in miniature; composed of the Mount Meru, surrounded by the continents and the oceans. It hosts an 800 meters long series of extraordinary bas-reliefs, depicting epic events of Khmer history and mythology.
BENG MEALEA Buddhist
Located about 40 km east of the Bayon and about 7 km southeast of Phnom Kulen, Beng Mealea was built at about the same time as Angkor Wat. Its dimensions are similar, but Beng Mealea has no central pyramid. It's enclosed by a moat measuring 1,200m by 900 meters. Most of the Buddhist temples built under Jayavarman VII (Preah Khan, Banteay Kdei, Ta Som and Ta Prohm) were modeled after this complex.
BANTEAY SAMRE Hindu (Vishnu)
Built by Suryavarman II, it contains well-preserved bas-reliefs depicting scenes of Vishnu and Krishna legends. The Samre were a people of mixed origins who were said to live at the base of the Kulen hills.
TA PROHM (1186) Buddhist
Jayavarman VII dedicated this temple to his mother. It has been left to the all-devouring jungle and it appears just as it did when it was rediscovered in 18th century by French explorers. It is a temple of towers, courtyards and narrow corridors, which are often impassable because of the vegetation and the large trees all of which give the temple its unique character.
BANTEAY KDEI (1181) Buddhist
Jayavarman VII also built this massive temple, surrounded by four concentric walls. Garudas decorate its four entrances. The inside of the central tower was never finished.
SRAH SRANG
Located opposite the Banteay Kdei complex, this artificial lake was used for ritual bathing by Royals.
PREAH KHAN (1191) Buddhist
Named "Sacred Sword", this temple was built by Jayavarman VII who dedicated it to his father. It covers a very large area, 700 by 800 meters, and is surrounded by a moat. Elaborate lintels and panels are richly decorated with bas-reliefs depicting Buddhist motifs and Hindu epics.
NEAK PEAN Buddhist
Composed of a square pool with four smaller square pools arranged on each axis. In the center of the main one is a circular island encircled by two nagas. It was built by Jayavarman VII and was used for rites of ritual purification.
BAYON Buddhist
Built by Jayavarman VII in the exact center of the city of Angkor Thom, it is unique for its 54 towers decorated with over 200 smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara. Its very well preserved bas-reliefs depict everyday life in the 12th century.
ELEPHANTS TERRACE
Measuring 350 meters in width, it is decorated with carvings, including elephants in hunting scenes, garudas and lions. Built under Jayavarman VII, it was a viewing platform from which kings and their courts watched military displays of pomp and pageantry.
TERRACE OF THE LEPER KING
At the top of this 7-meter-high platform stands a statue of what was thought to be the Leper King. It is in fact Yama, the god and judge of the dead. Stunning carvings adorning the walls on both sides cover the walkway. It was also built under Jayavarman VII.
BANTEAY CHHMAR Buddhist
At the conclusion of the civil war between the Khmer and Champa kingdoms in the 12th century, King Jayavarman VII built a temple in the Cambodian jungle to honor five heroes who died in defense of their country, one of them being his son. A "Fine Citadel" of eight temples, situated on a nine-square kilometer site and surrounded by a moat, was distinguished by expertly rendered bas-reliefs depicting the war between the kingdoms and the accession of the Khmer king. A remote and ruined temple with massive face-towers and intricate carvings shrouded in mist and jungle vegetation conjures up all the romanticism of a lost Khmer city.
